Over the past two years I have been working as a volunteer on building a tourist industry in Kosovo in a number of small ways.  This time last year I was spending my weeks shuttling from Pristina to the small village of Dranoc, near Decan, where there is a stunning old stone kulla, restored by an international NGO, which I was marketing as a venue for seminars and for bed and breakfast accommodation.  We (Kosovars and international visitors, women and men) sat in the former men’s oda meeting room and were taught Kosovan lullabies by a local soprano, listened to a lecture on the Kanun, learned about tasting techniques for Kosovar wine and raki, and much more.